Throughout my 20+ year career in the apparel industry, both knits and wovens have been integral to my daily work, sparking countless conversations about their respective strengths and applications. While it is easy to associate activewear primarily with knits—think leggings, sports bras, and athletic shirts—it is a misconception that wovens play only a minor role in this space. My early days at Nike, working on mechanical stretch wovens with bonded backings for team sports, highlighted just how critical woven fabrics are to the success of an athletic collection, both on and off the field.
As any team sports designer, product developer, merchandiser, or fit technician will tell you, wovens are indispensable. They have woven their way into the everyday lives of athletes, offering remarkable stretch, softness, lightness, and breathability—qualities that are essential for high-performance sportswear. These fabrics are also known for their durability, standing up to the rigorous demands of a coach’s team washing routine. As my career progressed, with periodic returns to Nike for special projects and challenges, wovens remained as much a focus as knits in my work.
Given my experience with both fabric types, I find it curious that so many industry professionals and consumers believe that knits offer superior quality and benefits compared to wovens. Let us dive into why this is not necessarily the case.
Yes, knits are crucial to our lives and the beautiful, fashion forward, and functional designs we create for our customers. My work with eavolu®, a sustainable apparel brand I founded during my time with EarthFirst Consultants®, is a testament to this. As a designer focused on sustainability, softness, minimalism, and comfort, knits were a natural choice for launching eavolu. They are easy to wear, care for, and produce, with sustainable and eco-friendly fibers readily available. But while knits were foundational in getting eavolu off the ground, my focus soon shifted to innovative uses of wovens—the true essence of sustainability.
The Science and Sustainability of Wovens
When it comes to sustainability, wovens offer unique advantages that are often overlooked. Research into biodegradable materials like Nylon 6.6, for instance, reveals that these fabrics can provide a crucial balance between durability and eco-friendliness. My direct work with biodegradability in Nylon 6.6 involved collaborating with CiCLO® Textiles, a company that invented an additive to enhance the biodegradability of synthetic fibers. Together, we evaluated this additive on Nylon 6.6 in both fiber and fabric form, incorporating it during the fiber production stage to improve biodegradability without compromising the fabric's strength or functionality. This innovation allows wovens made from Nylon 6.6 to break down more efficiently at the end of their lifecycle, offering a significant environmental benefit similar to that of cotton.
Take, for example, the potential of upcycling. It is straightforward to break down knits and reuse the fibers, but the process can be time-consuming and expensive. Woven fabrics, on the other hand, offer unique advantages in upcycling. They can be disassembled and then redesigned, even after being neglected or found in landfills. Depending on the weave, density, and fibers used, woven fabrics are often easier to clean and repurpose than knits. And let us not forget the minimal pilling in many woven fabrics, even after years of use—another factor that makes upcycling more feasible.
The ability to turn plastic bottles into recycled fibers is an incredible advancement, but it is not without its downsides. Once a plastic bottle becomes fiber, it breaks the recycling cycle—it can no longer become a plastic bottle again. This is where wovens can play a significant role in sustainability, offering a longer life cycle for materials through upcycling and repurposing. The durability and structure of woven fabrics make them ideal candidates for upcycling initiatives, extending their usability far beyond their original purpose.
As my career journeyed through Eddie Bauer, Nordstrom, and Amazon Active brands, where I worked on outerwear, gear, and activewear, my appreciation for wovens only deepened. The opportunity to combine additives directly into fibers, "locking in" technology to the final fabric, was particularly rewarding. Clean downstream water was a tangible result of this work, and it was gratifying to see the direct impact of thoughtful textile innovation.
From outerwear and pants to dress shirts and athletic wear, it is intriguing that wovens are often left out of the conversation around comfort and sustainability. Yes, the pandemic did usher in a preference for lounging in comfortable knit garments but let us not overlook the incredibly soft wovens that are just as comfortable for everyday wear.
So, what am I saying? Simply put, let us give wovens another chance. While activewear and athleisure have dominated the market—a trend that has undoubtedly benefited my career—woven fabrics have always been a critical part of that narrative. As we move toward a more sustainable future, wovens will continue to play a vital role in creating durable, innovative, fashionable and eco-friendly textiles.
Wovens offer not just the durability and technical properties needed in high-performance apparel but also the potential for greater sustainability. Whether it is through upcycling, integrating sustainable fibers, or developing innovative technologies, wovens deserve a prominent place in the conversation about the future of textiles. Let us embrace this fabric's potential as we work towards a more sustainable and innovative industry.
For More Information, here are sources to consider:
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For information on biodegradable textiles and the role of additives in enhancing biodegradability: Consider referencing academic journals such as Ecotextile News or industry publications like Sourcing Journal that cover textile innovations.
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For discussions on upcycling in textiles: The Textile Exchange or reports from organizations like the Apparel Insider are reliable sources.
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For general information on sustainable practices in the textile industry: Investigate articles from Textile Insights or sustainability reports from major textile companies.